Søre dyrhaugstind

I went yet another trip to Hurrungane. This time Sondre Weenås joined me. I had imagined that if I combined skiing and climbing, the two best things to do in life, that would be the ultimate thing to do. So to try it out I aimed for a route up Søre Dyrhaugtind. After sleeping in the car we went really early from Turtagrø so we could ski down around 1pm. At sunrise we reached the bottom of the route. Eager to start climbing and get warm I started of the first pitch. The sun radiation melted the snow quite fast and on the crux pitch the slab did not have any ice or snow. The climbing was quite exciting and totally different from Storen. After climbing some more, runouts, bad ice and the too much snow, I retreated. Sucks but thats how climbing is some times. Go back and do it when the conditions are better.

Did not take too many pictures but here are some

Rise and shine! Sonde around 3 in the morning

Sondre on the way to the first pitch

Red is where we climbed, and returned. Blue is the rest of the climb

View from 2nd belay, Midtmaradalen

Sondre following on the first of 4-5 pitches

Store Skagastølstind

Grodo and I went to try Storen a few weeks earlier. Due to shit conditions we had to bail, but this time that were not an option and we were more eager then ever. Sondre also wanted to start his winter climbing after newly purchased axes and crampons. This time we had visibility, but the strong wind kept it exciting during the pitches to the summit. I am hooked. Winter climbing is awesome.

Here's some pictures

At bandet getting ready to start the day

Making water

Going up the aprons

Beautiful view

The climbing getting closer

Scrambling some before roping in

Me belaying on top of the last pitch. Amazing formations

Grodo and Sondre at the summit

Ryefossen

Magnhild and Grodo wanted to climb some ice with me so we went to Jostedalen and climbed ryefossen. The winter had'nt turned out well yet, so I was a bit curious how the ice was. We got running water and some shallow patches of ice, but most important another day of nice ice climbing!

Ryefossen in Jostedalen

Grodo got the second pitch, belaying Magnhild

Magnhild and Grodo following 3rd pitch

Me belaying

Gravdøla

Went to Jostedalen after a few climbs in Sogndal and lots of work. Lisa were eager again and roped up with me. Gravdøla looks pretty awesome! After 3 pitches we were standing underneath  the last one. It wasn't really in good conditions so we went back home hoping for it to form later for another try.

Lisa following in second pitch

Last pitch, loose, shallow and runout climbing..

Hemsedal

Lisa and I went to Hemsedal as soon as possible eager to find some ice. We went to Gols juvet and Flaget fossen. The ice was fragile and not formed properly yet, but we got a few lines sent anyway. After climbing in spain, minus 30 degrees and ice climbing felt quit cold. Going back for more later!

Me doing one of the lines that had ok ice in Golsjuvet

Lisa on first pitch, flagetfossen

Lisa belaying me on first pitch.

Lisa following the second pitch.

Ice Ice Baby

Psyched for the first ice of the season. The conditions are not what they used to this time of year, but my hometown had ice compared to the rest of Norway. I was lucky enough to get two days in before heading down south for new years and skiing in myrkdalen. Eirik and I went one day to Bjølla in drivdalen. Bergljot and I went a few days after to the same spot. Ice is on! The skiing in myrkdalen didn't quite stick to the expectations with mild weather and foggy conditions. Anyways, got my first turns of the season and skiing is always fun!

Did not have any photos from myrkdalen, but here's some from Oppdal.

Xmas climbing

Me getting ready

Eirik stoked for ice

Eirik

Bergljot stoked on the top

Bergljot trying a more difficult line

Bergljot

Climbing in France and Spain

My friend Yngve and I went down to Orpierre, france 1st of Nowember. We stayed there for a week and headed down to Gorges du verdon. I wanted to climb the long multi pitch routes in the valley, but a snowstorm wanted different. So we headed down towards spain and ended up in Siurana, an amazing climbing location an hour from Tarragona. Unfortunately snow started falling from the sky and we had to move again. Further south in Gandia we found lots of pockets and tofus to pinch on and what seamed to be the only place in spain with warmish weather and sun. We stayed hear for almost two weeks and then headed up to Siurana to finish of some projects.

I had a few goals during this trip, one of them was to do a 7a. I reached that one and also sent 7b. The other goal was multi pitching in Gorges du Verdon. Weather made that impossible, but I will be back.

There is more information on Yngves blog:
http://fjellboka.no/2013/11/09/les-deux-clochards-part-une-2/

A few of Siuranas crags!

My first 7a, 3rd try, Siurana.

Belaying on 4th pitch? Orpierre

Jamming at night

Made an stove of a beer can

The view form Gandia

Waking up in a mountain village.

We did two multi pitches up this pillar, Orpierre

Multi pitching in Orpierre 

Finally sending an nice 6c after way to many tries, Gandia

Enjoying the sun in Gandia